Announcement: Welcome

Welcome to, a site for Volvo enthusiasts.  The site mostly focuses on 240-series cars with the Bosch K-Jet fuel injection systems, but there is plenty of information here for other models as well.  Please note that this site is not affiliated with the Volvo Group; please see the Disclaimers for more information.

Questions and comments about the site, your car, or anything in particular?  Comment on this post!

97 thoughts on “Announcement: Welcome”

  1. Hi – Thanks for all the help!
    I’ve used your advice to upgrade my son’s ’85 244DL, fix what’s broken, and take care of preventative maintenance.

    My next task is to replace the bus-sized steering wheel, as you did, with a smaller diameter from a 242, but I’m not having much luck in finding one.

    Any suggestions on where to look or whom to call?

    Thanks again and best regards,
    – Mike Lemon / Seattle

  2. This is a great site and has been very useful over the years – thank you!!
    In answer to the question posed below (from the front end section), quad round headlights were never fitted to any Australian spec Volvo at any stage.
    I’m happy to expand on the setups used here if required.
    Stephen C-S

    2) Double Rounds

    Description: Each side had two 5.75″ sealed beam headlights, one for low/high beams and one for high beams only. Can be replaced with E-code sealed beam lights. Plastic surrounds.

    Types: Only one standard type.

    Found On: USA: all 1976-77 260 series, all 1978-79 244 & 245, and 1980 244 & 245 DL only. Europe: Not available in most if not all markets. Australia: ?

  3. Hello,

    I have hard-wired my tail-lights per your instructions and they work great except that I could not find correct-size wire-connectors that fit the terminals on the light bulb holders. (I did not want to solder). I used connectors that I had to bend a bit to make them fit. Occasionally, though, a wire comes loose. Do you know of an electrical supply that has the correct-size connectors for the terminals?


  4. I am looking for a reputable remanufacturer who can supply a B21F engine for my 1980 242 DL with warranty. I am the original owner and the car has been almost completely redone inside and out, but I need an engine replacement as this one has 500,000 plus on it, and it is ready to retire.

    Any suggestions regarding sources appreciated

  5. Hi! I hard-wired the tail-lights of my 240 per your instructions. Everything works good- brake lights, back-up lights, turn signal lights— except— the left and right brake lights (not the high mounted center one) are always on when the headlights/tail-lights are on. Got any suggestions?

  6. Gave daughter mom’s 82 245 when mom passed. Trying to keep it going till the wheels are square as it only has 175000. miles on it. Been a mechanic for 45 years so not afraid to dive in and do what i can on this car. i see all the green books on your site and i want to thank you so much for your contribution to us who want to do as much work ourselves but need correct information such as factory info. thank you very much for providing all this helpful information.

  7. Hi,
    I just came on your site looking for Volvo info.
    I’m building EFI on my engine, Do i still need ‘The idle speed adjustment assembly’ as you call it, i don’t mean the idle air valve but the little assembly on the thorttle body.
    Thanks for any info you have,

  8. Hi,

    Read your article on the numbering method of volvo models.
    I have a unique (at least here in RSA) volvo 144 TE (1975). Aside from a few body changes, the motor is powered by Bosch CI fuel injection where as the other 144 models are fitted with a variety of carburetors. What exactly does the TE stand for?

    Best Regards,

  9. Thanks for very informative site! I’d like to make little addition to “K-Jet debugging guide” section. Gasoline tank and primary fuel pump should be inspected, when engine has hard time to start and car is on high age. If high pressure pump is mounted under the car but not in the tank, engine won’t run without primary fuel pump! This issue has foaming gas problem as a symptom, and I really had hard time to find out, that the failure was in connection failure of gas tank fuel pump connectors.

  10. Your Green Books have helped me so many times. I have a copy of 1984 New Car Features… I can’t recall the rest of the title but if you would like, I could upload or send you a PDF and you could if you wanted. Maybe it would help someone. Thanks for all your site has done for me.



  11. Hey

    Really nice site, but i cant find any manuals about B230 series engines? – I really would like data on that series of engines just like the others, i am doing a complete rebuild of a B230FK turbo, so i need this data when tightening all the engine bolts. I have everything ready to be put together. Repainted the block, glas blasted the cylinder head and cleaned all parts. All bearings and sealings will be replaced (already bought), even the turbo are fully restored with new bearings. Really looking forward to get the engine put back together. – As i said, just need data and manuals. I will be very pleased if you could help me out (Y) 🙂


  12. Greetings! I am a big VOLVO enthusiast, and I really like your web site. It is very interesting. I am a member of a car club called “San Diego Volvo Sports America.” I really like the older Volvo cars, and I think my favourite car is the Volvo 140 series & the very similar Volvo model 164, which were produced in the late 1960s & early 1970s.

    My car is a 2001 Volvo model S 40 1.9 T, manufactured August 2001. I bought the car on Saturday, 4 November, 2006 with 55,985 miles. It currently has 130,000 miles. It has been a very reliable daily driver the whole time I have owned it, and I will continue to drive it for as long as possible. It has not required any major repair work. It has been a very good car.

    My father introduced me to Volvo cars, and he has owned several of them over the years. His first Volvo was a 1993 Volvo 854 GLT, then he had a 2002 Volvo S 60 , then a 2006 Volvo C 70 convertible, and now he drives a 2013 Volvo S 60. He never had any problems with those cars, and we do not drive any cars except for Volvos. We took the advice from the late Alexander Scourby: “Buy a Volvo & keep it a long time, then you can get out from under car payments & car salesmen for a while.”

    I have one question for you. I was reading your articles about your former cars, and it looks like you did not own some of them for very long. Here is my question: Whatever happened to your 1978 Volvo model 242 DL? There is no”How it Ended” section in the article. I am interested in knowing why you do not own it any more.

    Thank you for the web site, and all of the helpful & interesting information. Good luck with your cars, and keep up the good work.

  13. Does anyone know where I can get parts for a CI injection system?
    Especially the 3 seals for line pressure regulator. I can probably find the 2 O-rings at a local seal supplier, but the one on the end of the piston doesn’t look like an O-ring.


  14. Stuart,
    I have followed your site over the years.
    5 years ago I moved with family in WA state from San Diego.
    I have a 1985 244 GLT & would like to chat with you about some upgrades. Would appreciate your input.
    July 31, 2014

  15. hello there, i recently purchased a 1976 volvo 265sw and it constantly revs high at idle but if i try to touch the gas it immediately starts to pop stutter and die, if i put it in gear and release the clutch the idle itself drives the car without me touching the accelerator at all. any help would be greatly appritiated!

  16. Gracias por su dedicación!! mi ingles no es bueno pero aun así, he podido leerlo con gran interés, ha sido de gran ayuda, muchas gracias.
    ¿podría enviarle alguna foto de mi 1990 Volvo 740 GL a fin de que me ayude a identificar que modelo de inyección Bosch tengo instalada?
    Saludos Desde Buenos Aires
    Adrian Bruzzoni

    Thank you for your dedication! My English is not good but still, I could read the articles with great interest, has been of great help, thank you very much.
    Could I send to you pictures of my 1990 Volvo 740 GL perhaps you can help me to identify which model I have installed Bosch injection?

  17. Hi,
    I am a 240 (White, 1983, B23A engine) owner from Iran. I usually check your site and always will be pleased by reading your thoughts, training and sharing your invaluable experiences. Always I wish that we could have a resource such as IPD and you knowledge for Volvo here.

    This time I would say congratulations to you for your new car. We say in Persian “I wish that its wheels spin for you, lifetime” and with happiness.

    Thanks again.

  18. Love the site, i’m actually fairly new to the 200 series Volvo as of this year. I used mostly every bit of information provided here to aid me in maintenance and trouble shooting on my 1990 240DL wagon. I also would like to add that i have another 200 series front end option that may have been unexplored prior to my “experimenting”.

    I used aftermarket 7in round lights mounted into the cover-less USA spec Big Rectangles. Then recessed the the grill nearly 3 inches back by basically trimming off plastic on the backside.

    $50 invested for 7inch rounds, they also came with city/DRL lights.


  19. Hi there
    just purchase a 1988 244 in very good shape..
    id like to to rove the M cam to a better low end torque one ..but the cost of a new one is too much for me
    do you still have some left ? let me know im on paypal or credit

  20. Hi,
    Thanks for all the infos you put together over all these years and of course for sharing everything.
    It’s indeed a great help for every 200 driver.

    You mentioned however somewhere that it might be possible to do a 264TE on your own by using two 242 bodies. Well I don’t think it will be as simple as that. Having a 264TE myself, I can tell you that many many parts are different from any stock Volvo.

    Please keep on with the excellent work.


  21. Hello,

    a great site you have made​​. I wanted to make you aware of another rare Volvo from the series 200th
    It is the Volvo 244 DLS only produced exclusively for the former East Germany, 1000.

    There are currently approved for 40 units.

    best regards from east-germany


  22. Be sure that you don’t run out of oil in a 5-speed transmission. As I’ve had to replace several when they go dry and eat their front lower bearing. In sixteen years of 240 service I’ve found that automatics are bulletproof, and just need leak repair, 4-speed O/D units are good, and five speeds that run-out of oil are toast.

  23. So I landed a free 245 NA. I can’t junk it though it should be to my father. A teacher friend of mine gave it to me, and it was free, so now it is my project. What I though was just going to be a fuel pump and fire it up after sitting for 12 years has turned into a bad wiring harness. I am in the process of removing mine, and really having trouble getting it out/disconnected or my head around what the heck I am doing. But I am going for it none the less. I am a poor school teacher who is big on DIY, so I am going to make my own if I can ever get it out. I am not seeing the connectors, the wires disappear into the fire wall. Can you direct me to some good visual instruction? I am an art teacher so I do better with pictures! Glad I found your site, its inspired me not to give up on the ole brick, but boy am I in deep now. IF it runs, and IF I get it back together to find out, and IF everything else works, its only got 180k on it, and I hope will take me many more!


    Preston in NC

  24. Wow – I love your site! I’m so impressed with all the information. Thank you so much for compiling and sharing.
    I have a (currently not running) ’88 245DL, which was my first, and only, Volvo. But, it made me just…fall in love with these cars.
    I’m not sure whether to keep the 245, but am hoping to find a newer (but still RWD) Volvo.

  25. Hi Rully,

    I would wager dollars to donuts you have a damaged heater core. The smoke you see is probably steam from leaking coolant, and the steam on your windshield is, you guessed it, steam from leaking coolant.

    I’m not going to lie to you: it’s a big job and a decent heater core costs about $100. But there’s a great guide with lots of pictures here:

    While you’re in there, you may want to replace your heater fan as well – otherwise, that’s another big job to do later, if it hasn’t been replaced yet:

    Good luck!!!

  26. Hi, My name is Rully.I just recently bought my second 244 turbo,year is 1985 black on black (my first one wrecked). And i found out that the ventilation on my car is really weird,All the climate control button isn’t working and the heater blows hot air but smokes coming out of the dash vents, And ALWAYS fogged up the windshields un-controllably and front windows.Also the lower vent is as if always open and cannot be shut in this cold colorado weather right now ( i might as well ride motorcycle ).
    So please if you can enlighten me a little on this i would greatly appreciate it because im on the brink of just selling my favorite car.
    Thanks a bunch 🙂

  27. Hi! Another John here, from Latvia.

    I just wanted to add my thanks to the rest.
    I very recently purchased a 1989, 245 GL.
    The ‘Greenbooks’ section has already helped me in many ways.
    I might even borrow some of your upgrade ideas. Who knows. 🙂

    Thx a lot for the awesome site.

  28. Just a story about an uncommon/rare Volvo…I saw a red Dover Collection car here in Mesa Az talked to the owner, Bill, and told him the story of the Dover/Hever cars…

    There was either 12 or 14 242 GLTs that were sold through the Military Sales Office by Volvo to be delivered at Dover Castle. These cars were only sold to Military and since there was a majority of US Air Force Bases in England I think they were mainly sold to USAF members. They were sold for $12,000 and I had the choice of the Volvo, a Saab Turbo, the new Porsche 944 (I was going to buy the Porsche but they were pulled from the deal before I decided) or a Toyota Celica for the same money. The Volvo included shipping back to the US when we moved back. Just a side note to the Volvos…We (service members) could order a new Volvo from Military Sales and go to Sweden, pick up the new car and drive it back to England. I somehow remember you could even meet the team that built the car?? Probably just a tour of the factory.

    I first saw the Volvo after they had been delivered at Dover Castle when a Sgt (from New Mexico-Bill, thats why I asked you if it came from N Mex-I thought it was Rudy’s car) in my flight bought a red/silver one and drove it into work…I fell in love with it. There was also a silver/black car on base. I went to the Military Sales Office and was told about the Dover cars. Thats when I was offered the other cars and one of the two Dover cars that had not sold (the car I bought had the financing fall through before it was delivered and I dont know why the other car didnt sell and I think it was a two tone blue car).

    These cars had special badging and paint (a contrast color painted from the waist trim down). I think there was 4 color combos. Mine was silver with black, there was red with silver, two tone blue (I cant remember if it was light on top or bottom) and I think a forth that I do not remember.

    I had missed the Dover delivery but Volvo was offering a delivery in Hever Castle South of London for all Volvos bought during a (I think) 3 month period. These cars were all different models and had a “Hever Collection” badge on the trunk lid. I dont remember a dash badge like the Dover cars had. So of the Dover cars there was either 10 or 12 cars that were still badged as Dover cars and 2 that were changed to Hever cars along with the 30 or so other cars that were delivered at Hever Castle…..

    A side note about my old car…I traded it in at Sands Chevrolet in ’85 when our twins were born and in “04 I tracked it down in Long Beach Ca but could not find the owner to tell him/her the story of the car. I should have tried harder to locate it and maybe bought it back….it was the first new car I owned and I sure would have liked it back to get in shape like your car Bill…It is very nice and now you have a little history about the car.


  29. How’s that for fate – that ghost B21 F ignition module I paid you for never showed so I had to liquidate my otherwise healthy brick for 225.00 to a metal sculptor just to maintain a good standing with my homeowner’s assoc.But hey -you’re the bee’s knees to everyone else huh .

    I tried to contact you many times by email; the package was returned to me “address unknown”. You never got back to me or answered any of my emails.

    Besides, for the ignition module, all I asked was that you pay shipping – $10.87 on 2/26/10 according to my paypal logs. I didn’t even charge you for the ignition module at all, which was easily worth five times that by itself.

    And NOW you show up on my website, TWO AND A HALF YEARS LATER, with this? Over $10.87?

    You had more than two years to fix your car. The fact that it went to the scrapyard is YOUR FAULT not mine. Grow up.

  30. How’s that for fate – that ghost B21 F ignition module I paid you for never showed so I had to liquidate my otherwise healthy brick for 225.00 to a metal sculptor just to maintain a good standing with my homeowner’s assoc.But hey -you’re the bee’s knees to everyone else huh .

  31. I’ve been absent for some time, but now I remember why I used to love this website. Thank you, I will try and check back more frequently. How frequently you update your site?

  32. By the way, I am presently driving daily my 86 Volvo 244GL and have found (knock on wood) all the body parts for the door plastic and am spending about $125/mo. on various parts to restore it to pristine condition. I wonder how to recondition the spoke wheels? They are filthy and have gouges in them from curbs. Any ideas?

    Thank you!

    Kevin Mac

  33. Hi,great website…and cool article man…thanx for the great post…keep on posting such articles… Resources like the one you mentioned here will be very useful to me! I will post a link to this page on my blog. I am sure my visitors will find that very useful.Thank you!

  34. Awesome Volvo page! I will definitely be passing on your link to all my Volvo friends. I currently own two Volvo’s, a 2003 S60 and a 1965 122S. I’m highly involved with my car club going to more then 15 shows a year displaying my S60. I’m the only Volvo in the club, the vehicle range includes almost every auto make that’s popular. Can’t wait to restore my 122s and start bringing it to shows as well. Keep the Volvo enthusiasm going, Great job!

  35. Are you still looking for photos of this engine: 1982 B21F with LH-Jetronic 1.0 (as indicated by the VIN digits 6 and 7 being 48 and having some obvious differences from the B21F K-Jetronic engines in your photos)?

  36. I just downloaded all the original 200 pages and wanted to say thank you! I love my 86 Volvo 240 GL. It has 171,240 miles on it and runs fantastic. About 3-4 years ago it was run into by a drunk driver on a snowy road in the passenger side and pushed the center column clear in. I have been attaching a trucker’s chain and 8-ton come-along to telephone poles, trees etc. and trying to straighten it. Meanwhile, the rack and pinion has gone out and it is eating and drinking power steering fluid. I will spare no expense or time and effort to restore this wonderful friend. I am grateful to you and your supporters who publish, scan and otherwise make available these invaluable pages for schleps like me to read and study so that I can fix “Winston” properly!

    Anything I can do to help out I hope you’ll let me know!

    Sincerely yours,

    Kevin Mack
    Boise, Idaho, USA

  37. Hello,

    I am looking for a repairs and service manual for the french 6 cilinder 262C engine.
    Can you provide the manual ?

    Regards Coen

  38. I have a couple of 240’s (one w/k-jet) and a 1980 BMW 320i (E21). BMW used k-jet for its M10 engine, which is the 4-banger for the E21 body style for 1975 through 1983. On behalf of the E21 community worldwide and especially those of us with k-jet, I’d like to express my (our) gratitude with a thousand thank-yous for this awesomeness. We’ve had a permalink to your site on our forum for some years now.



  39. I will try the o-ring route first but if that doesn’t work out I guess I will see if I can buy some black ones at the local wrecking yard. They are a pretty minor piece and I can see why they are not available from anyone. They just wouldn’t be worth the price of producing them. Volvo apparently had them and was selling them for about five dollars each but they are no longer available. I would have happily paid that just to get them. Thanks for your suggestion.

  40. Tan door lock collars are pretty much impossible to find, since the tan interior weathered the worst. You can still find blue or black ones in decent shape and paint them, or use black rubber o-rings (get them at any hardware store). I try to grab the door lock rings whenever I see a 240 at a junkyard, but they are usually much too far gone – brittle, broken, or nonexistent.

  41. I just found your site and I have owned my 82 GLT B23E for nineteen years now. It is part of the family and will never be retired from service as long as I am around. I also own a Model T and a Citroen ID20 but they are toys. The Volvo is my driver.

    One small question. Do you have any idea where I could find something to replace the door lock collars. I recently overhauled both doors because of handle issues and one of these things broke and the other is badly faded and pretty well hooped. Not worried about colour but mine are `tan` or `camel`. I could use a wrecking yard but expect they are in pretty poor condition as well. Do you happen to know if the same sized collars were used on later model cars.

  42. Hi!
    You have a really fantastic site!
    My first Volvo was a 67 123 GT that I wish that I still had. Unfortunately, I was t-boned by some lady coming out of a side street in a Cadillac while I was peacefully trundling down Ventura Bl. in Encino, Ca.
    I have had 13 new Volvos since then. That first one, my Parents co-signed for because when I was 21 I had no credit. Things haven’t changed much in that respect.
    Anywhooo… my last new Volvo was a 2003 Cross Country that was arguably the worst car that I have ever owned. Nothing mechanically went wrong with it, but all the problems were electronic in nature. Not electrical, but electronic. Mine was a European delivery, and I actually got to see it roll off the assembly line… a European color called Dark Bronze Pearl… an absolutely fantastic color.
    My current Volvo, that I bought new and literally drove off of the showroom floor is an 84, two door turbo that is now giving me a lot of problems. I’ve had four tank pumps in three years. I’ve heard that there is a screen in one of the lines of the fuel pressure regulator, and I’m going to be yanking that regulator off in a couple of days. If I could only find the bolts that attach it to the block. It’s one of those regulators with no vacuum hoses going to it. But, first, I’m going to have to blast off the grease and grime from the engine. The last time that I did that was about fifteen years ago. LOL! That car is driving me up the wall (!!!) but I want to be buried in that car. Literally. I can’t drive it for more than about five miles in weather over 80 degrees before it wants to stop… with all of the classic symptoms… the whining main pump, etc. I just got one of the “super” pumps from IPD who I have been doing business with for about 15 years. I have been reading the “official” Volvo manuals until my head is ready to explode. I’ve been putting a lot of miles on my 2008 Camaro six cylinder (with 312 h.p.!!!)
    Anyway… as I said, you have an incredibly great site… particularly when it comes to your expertise on the really fantastic mechanical fuel injection. I discovered your site a few years ago

    By the by…
    My Mom, who was 75 when I bought my 84 Turbo… always wanted me to drive her in MY car when I drove her anywhere… and not in her 66 Fleetwood (That I just sold… with under 200K on the clock… complete with all records including the original sales receipt from Casa de Cadillac in Sherman Oaks.)
    She always said that she felt “safer” in my car than in hers.

    Hey… I have degree in engine design from MIT… so wish me luck with getting to the bottom of this fuel delivery problem. The car only just turned 140,000 the other day, but my problems started after I let it sit in the garage for over a year and the gas went bad. So, I removed the tank, sent it off to be cleaned and it looked like a diamond on the inside when I got it back. Changed the fuel filter twice, the in-tank pump four times, checked out the fuel distributor as per the manual, looked for crimped or dented lines under the car, went nuts checking out the electrics and voltage to the tank pump… I’d drive it into Lake Mead if I wasn’t committed to fixing it. None of the mechanics here in Las Vegas know what to do with it, and the local Volvo dealer won’t work on it because they can’t just go and plug a computer into an OBD plug.

    Oh, and one more thing.
    Your installation of the electric fan is just plain flat-out PRIMO!!! Once I get things sorted out with the fuel delivery, I’m going to install one.
    One more thing… My wastegate is either jammed open or shut. I just noticed it. I just got a new actuator from IPD, but it looks like I’ll have to replace the wastegate… which isn’t such a big deal. I already have the old girl up on ramps in the garage. In a few minutes I’m going out there to see what’s up with the wastegate and replace the actuator.

    Keep up the good work!!!
    Sorry for the protracted message… I guess I’m just venting. Hahahaha.

    Best of health to you.

    JIM in Las Vegas, NV.

    By the by… a few years ago, I did a 134 Freon conversion and changed my compressor to a G.M. unit from (I think) a Saturn. It fits right in with the help of a piece of steel pipe as a spacer. Pully is the same diameter (or maybe off by about 1/4 of an inch). On a 118 degree day, it’s actually COOL in the car… the dark tint all around helps.

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